Upper Onion Creek

Last night was our first time camping in paid camping grounds. We often opt for a dispersed camp spot on public lands (usually BLM or Forest Service managed land), which means an area off a dirt road that looks used by previous adventures.

Dispersed Verses Designated

A rock made fire pit or tire tracks are typical signs of a free public lands camp spot. Dispersed camping is the way to go. Rex and I prefer these camp areas as opposed to paid because often they are remote and offer scenic vistas.

But we made an exception. Upper Onion Creek Camp Grounds was surrounded by incredible views from front to back; Fisher Towers and the red rock Colorado River canyon. And the entire campground was empty, all sixteen camp spots. We rolled through, had our pick of the best, and set up camp as the evening was settling in. We couldn’t believe our luck.

No-See-Ums

The next morning Rex got up early to paint while I snoozed a bit longer. When I begin to stir, Rex warned me that the bugs were voracious. But it was hot in the tent, and I was ready for some coffee.

As I climbed down the ladder, Rex sprayed my legs with bug repellent. The bugs were that bad.

No-see-ums, or the tiny black bugs that swarm around you known as Leptoconops torren are brutally obnoxious. Similar to the gnats I experienced growing up back east, except these little buggers like to bite. And it hurts like hellfire.

Trying to enjoy my coffee and the view, the Punkies continue to chow down on any exposed skin.

I finally climbed inside the hot, stuffy truck to eat my breakfast. With the windows rolled up, I watched Rex paint while I munched on an apple. He survived the buggers by slathering on thick layers of sunblock. When the no-see-ums landed, they would drown in the goop. Earbuds in, he danced to tunes while slinging paint, not letting the buggy elements get to him. I wish I had his stamina.

Once the biting midges wandered off, the strangest looking ants came out in droves. They had large heads and small bodies. The bigheaded ants looked as if they were walking backwards. They too enjoyed munching on human flesh. They could’ve been Pheidole megacephala, an invasive species that has been nominated as among 100 of the “World’s Worst” invaders.

After a day of bugs and beauty, we made our way to town for dinner. We had reservations with our friend Rusty. Rex met Rusty during a Moab plein air event and paint out. She is a patron of plein air art and a gracious host. The two became fast friends with their mutual love of art and scavenging for interesting driftwood, bones, leaves, but especially rocks.

We dined at the Baja Grill in downtown Moab, a recommendation from Rusty. We all ordered fish tacos and margaritas on the rocks. The food, drinks, and service were outstanding. Rex and I are still talking about those tacos.

Rusty invited us to stay, offering a bed with clean sheets, a shower with real soap, and a sweet pup to love on named Lupe. We happily accepted her offer.